The ultimate kenyan bikepacking adventure (elephants and armed men)

Meeting ian in NAIROBI

After crossing the border into Kenya, I heard that there was another cyclist named Ian (@ridewithian) who was in Nairobi and looking to head north through Kenya.

I’d been in contact with Ian and his partner Sarah since Cape Town as they left on their bicycle journey to Cairo only a few weeks ahead of me.

So knowing that I would be cycling a loop around Kenya anyway, I decided to take a bus to Nairobi to meet Ian and cycle through Kenya together for a few weeks. His partner was flying back to the USA and going to re-join him in Cairo.

After a couple of days getting acquainted in Nairobi, we set off on the Kenyan Bikepacking Odyssey Route.

This was one of the things I was most excited about doing before arriving in Africa.

(Ian has done a great set of daily videos on his instagram of our time bikepacking Kenya.)


starting the kenyan bikepacking odyssey

Initially I was a little nervous to ride with Ian as his bike is more suited to cycling on paved roads and not really designed for the type of off road riding I wanted to do.

The majority of the route we would be riding together was off road which made me a little nervous. I was sure he wouldn’t be able to cope and thought that we would only spend a few days together before having to part ways.

It had also been the first time I’d cycled with someone since 2017 in Peru…and that was only for 1 day.

However, by the end of the first day, my mind was at ease. Ian proved to be a very good companion and would tackle rough rocky trails, even if it meant going a little slower. 

The first interesting part of the route was riding through the Kedong Ranch. It was a private Ranch that had zebras and different antelope and allowed us to cycle from one side of the Ranch to the other.

The adventure really began when we reached an intersection after crossing a gate. The guard signalled us to turn right although our GPS was telling us to turn left. After a very indisicive decision, we listened to the guard and turned right.

As we watched the dot on our GPS get further and further away from the track, we were sure we’d gone the wrong way. We stopped and realised that rather than riding back up the hill to the intersection, we could just cut across the land and bushbash 2km to the other road.

We also hadn’t seen any animals up until this point and were convinced that bushbashing would not only save us time but might give us some encounters with wildlife.

At first it seemed very easy but as we continued the scrub became thicker and more prickly. But we persisted…

Eventually it came to a point where we were getting really cut up by the prickly bushes and reached a rock wall 15m high. We climbed up the top to get a better look and soon realised that it would be impossible to climb over there with our bikes and there was no way around it…except returning to the road we’d come from.

After another hour making our way back to the road, we decided to just continue down the road and eventually it must join up with the other road…we were right.

Both a bit beat up and worn down, we were happy to be back on the road and only have 15km to Lake Naivasha and our camp for the night.

We celebrated a bit too early though, because the road became a sandy, rocky mess and was virtually impossible for Ian to ride more than a few hundred metres at a time before getting stuck in sand.

Then the bolt for his front rack snapped off and we stopped under a tree to fix it. Lucky, I had the right size bolt he needed so we could continue. It was nice to find some shade and take a break though. There was a heard of Zebras roaming around which was nice to see after not seeing much wildlife in the Ranch until that point.

Eventually, we made it to Fishermans Camp and decided to take the next day off to relax and enjoy the company of some monkeys and hippos.

Over the next couple of days we rode through some amazing landscapes. Riding along the lakeside we saw Giraffes, Zebras, Warthogs and Camels. 

Then we started climbing up hill.  We finally reached the top and were rewarded with a steep downhill section on pavement where Ian reached his top speed record. It was only once we reached the bottom of the hill, that we realised we’d missed the turn and weren’t actually meant to go ride down.

So we rode slowly back up the hill and went off road to make our way to Earth Camp which had a beautiful view over the valley below.

The following day we rode through Eburru Forest which was special. I almost rode into a Mountain Congo (last picture), an endangered antelope with less than 100 left in the wild…and only 12-15 in the whole forest.

It gave me a bit of a fright but it was a pretty cool experience.

Getting saved in a small village

We started making our way down a big hill at speeds over 65 km/ph which was a lot of fun. No cars around which meant we could really go as fast as we could.

But inevitably, that meant we would have to ride back up. And it wasn’t a small climb. Over 1500m of climbing with a max gradient over 20%.

Just before starting the climb we decided to stop for some beans for lunch. 

It was only 50 cents for a plate of beans. When they arrived, Ian said “do you think they smell funny?” to which I replied “no”.

Even though I also noticed they smelt a bit funny, I thought, that’s just what beans smell like sometimes when they’re a little old. I noticed someone else in the restaurant eating them and I didn’t want to get up and try and find somewhere else to eat, so we ate the beans and continued riding.

We made our way slowly up the hill, using the entirety of the road and zig zagging across as to try and make it easier. I was really impressed that I was able to ride up 99% of it and so happy with the gear ratios of my pinion gearbox. I’ve never been able to cycle up a hill that steep before.

After a few gruelling hours of climbing through the forest, we made it to the top of the mountain, Gods Bridge Viewpoint…

…but that’s when things made a turn for the worst. The beans we ate for lunch started to kick in.

My stomach felt like I was getting stabbed with a sharp knife continuously. I couldn’t even stand up anymore. The pain came on really fast.

One minute I was fine, the next I couldn’t move.

I told Ian I needed to do a poo but we were on top of the mountain with sharp drops on either side of the road. Not a great place for it.

And just like everywhere in Africa when you stop for more than a minute, a crowd of locals had appeared next to us. So there was nowhere to hide.

But I didn’t have a choice…I had to go.

Ian sensing my discomfort, started to entertain the kids as I began to climb down the edge of the cliff.

I took off my shorts and undies and was half naked trying to hold onto a rock as my bowels exploded down the mountain, still in agonising pain.

Locals would walk passed, stop and look at me but I honestly didn’t care at that point.

I didn’t have the strength to climb back up the 7m to the road, so I just sat in the dirt, butt naked on the ground watching insects crawl around my bum hole.

I could finally stop and have a look at the view. It was pretty nice!

I sat there for 15 minutes or so until I noticed the kids were starting to form a crowd above me near where I’d left my bike. So I made my way back up the hill and gave them their first look at a white bum which they all found pretty funny.

I managed to get my pants on and Ian then managed to get the kids to leave us alone.

It was only 15km further to our planned camp for the night but it was going to involve a lot of pushing and climbing up and down more hills. 

I told Ian that I was 90% sure I wouldn’t be able to make it to the camp and we would need to come up with a solution.

We slowly continued pushing the bikes and my energy had completely drained, still with the sharp stabbing pain in my stomach. It was going to be difficult to find anywhere to camp because it was so steep on both sides and we were essentially on top of a mountain ridge.

Every 15 minutes or so I had to stop and lie down due to the pain. Ian was being very patient with me.

After the third time we stopped, we thought we’d found a semi flat spot next to the road that was near a water source. 

“This could be a potential camp spot for the night” Ian said.

I collapsed onto the ground and about 30 seconds later, a herd of cows were guided right over me towards the water source. They were thirsty and didn’t care if I couldn’t move.

We agreed it wouldn’t be a great place to camp for the night so we continued and decided we would just try to communicate with people and ask if we could camp in their village.

Another 500m down the road, we saw some people filling their water and I told Ian “I’m done, we need to stop.”

We communicated to the family we were just going to camp right there on the road and they then gestured us back up the hill to their property.

Ian followed the lady up the hill while I stayed lying in some cow poo hoping for some sort of solution.

Eventually, we pushed our bikes up to the property , I collapsed and Ian set up my tent for me.

It was an interesting place. There were 15 kids and 5 adults all living in these 2 small huts. There were 20 goats, 15 chickens and 15 cows roaming free in this very small area where we’d pitched our tents.

No one really understood what was going on and why there were two white guys in their remote village, one of whom looked on deaths door, so all evening they just gathered and stared at us.

At that point I wanted to be at home in bed getting looked after by my girlfriend. I was thinking about the last time I had food poisoning and although painful, at least I had a bed and bathroom.

Instead I was lying in the dirt in the middle of some rural Kenyan village with animals crawling over me while 20 people just stand there silently staring at me 2m away. And this is what the “bathroom” looked like (right).

Throughout the rest of the afternoon and evening, the whole village came to have a look at us and see what was going on, including the chief of the village, an elderly lady.

Surprisingly, a couple of the villagers could speak English and Ian managed to occupy them while the rest of them stared at me in pain.

Until about 9pm, we had kids staring at us through the tent, I guess they had nothing better to do.

Ian was given a plate of beans for dinner which I thought was pretty funny. To my surprise he ate them and told me they didn’t smell bad like the ones we had for lunch.

I woke up at around 4.30am and noticed an 80% improvement. The pain in my stomach was manageable. I could actually get up and walk around. The worst of it had passed. I decided to quickly pack up all my stuff including tent and bicycle before the big crowds of people started appearing again.

Ian woke up 30mins later and did the same thing.

Before we left, I sat down and spoke with everyone thanking them from the bottom of my heart for their hospitality. I don’t know what I would have done without them.

They made us some eggs and chai tea for breakfast and I left them a small donation for all of their help.

Only 100m after we left, Ian ran into some serious bike troubles with his chain and cassette. A new crowd appeared but eventually the bike was rideable enough to make the last 10km to the place we were planning to camp the night before.

There he spent the day working on fixing his bike (which he managed to do) and I rested and finally started eating some food again.

The next day we decided to go to the highway just incase Ian’s bike problems became more serious.,

the friendliest town in africa

We were originally going to arrive at Lake Baringo and have a day or 2 off to unwind from the madness of the passed couple of days.

We’d heard it was a great place to do a boat tour.

However, as with any touristy place in Africa, people kept hassling us to give them money and go on their boat tour. Literally every person who saw us, would run up to you intensely trying to get you on their boat. And they don’t stop when you tell them no.

So early the next day, we decided to push on and make our way to Lake Bogoria Spa Camp. When we arrived, they wanted $25 each to pitch our tent.

We decided that was extortion (you can get an ensuite room at a guesthouse in rural Kenya for $5) so we decided to continue another 15km to a potential smaller camp…and we are so glad that we did.

After 15km of difficult rocky riding in the hot desert sun, we arrived in the small village of Maji Moto, meaning “Hot water”.

The village was just a bunch of tin sheds on a really dry and dusty landscape. We were both a little hot and bothered when we arrived. 

It didn’t seem very promising. All we could see was tin sheds, dirt and no shade.

Luckily, on the other side of the small village we found the camp. We saw there was a big tree and immediately we felt relaxed. We negotiated a good price for camping, was welcomed by the friendly caretakers and were honestly just happy to be out of the sun.

We really needed a day off so that’s what we did.

We went into town on both of the days we were there to drink some warm beer and talk with the locals.

Everyone was so friendly. They weren’t used to having tourists stay there and they just wanted to chat with us and have a good time. 

And for the first time since leaving Botswana, not a single person in the village asked us for money the whole time we were there for 2 days.

Unheard of in East Africa. For reference, I normally get asked 50-200 times per day when travelling on the bike.

While I went to get us some warm cider from the local bar, Ian tried some local honey they had taken straight from the hive with honey comb. We got a litre for only $3. It was absolutely delicious.

There was one shop in town with a fridge so it was great to get some cold water. They even let us bring our warm beer from the bar to drink there.

And the warm cider from the keg was only 80 cents a pint.

We then went to the river where the water was warm, hence the name of the town, Maji Moto. In the river we saw a baby crocodile swimming into a crevice between the rocks. According to the locals there is a whole family of them living there…which we weren’t told about when we were down by the water earlier that day.

The locals all used different parts the river to bathe and would strip completely naked.

As it was, the woman’s section of the river was 15m from where we were told to setup our tents by the caretaker. So for 2 days we watched 10’s of local woman and children come to the river, strip naked and bathe. It was quite a sight.

The women would continuously look up at us and laugh.

surviving a storm in the middle of the night

The following day we made our way up the mountain again towards the Lake Baringo View Point where we would stay at a rangers station.

The rangers tried to charge us $20USD each a night to pitch our tent with no facilities but managed to get them down to about $4 each.

It was probably the best view of the trip.

We drank some cheap whiskey and decided to get the drone out…which I eventually crashed.

Then, we started feeling the weather change. The wind started howling.

Finally, after almost 7 months in Africa without seeing rain, it started raining…and it wasn’t just light rain, it was an outright storm.

I ran to my tent to put 2 large rocks inside as I thought it was going to blow off the edge of the mountain. 

The storm stopped before we went to bed and we were both happy we’d seen the worst of it.

But the worst was yet to come.

The storm started again at about 11pm and lasted for a few hours.

Ian’s tent almost got swept away in the rain as he pitched it where all the water drained over the cliff. His tent was literally floating in a river at this point.

In the middle of the night, he stripped naked and piece by piece took his tent and all his belongings into the small shelter available.

I on the other hand didn’t and when I woke up in the morning, everything was soaked except the inside of the tent. But my bike and everything inside all the bike bags was wet.

I guess my bike bags aren’t waterproof after all.

Luckily we would ride into town the next day and dry everything off.

getting too close to some elephants

We set off from the town of Rumuruti and made our way towards Laikipia. We had been looking at satellite maps of tracks and trails in this remote area where we were told there was an abundance of elephants.

So we planned to spend a couple of nights exploring the area and wild camping.

But before we left Rumuruti, I noticed a small crack on the seat tube of my aluminium frame. I decided to continue riding on it into Laikipia, as either way I was going to have to ride a couple hundred kilometres before being able to receive a lift back to Nairobi where I could eventually come up with a solution.

This area was definitely the highlight of the trip for me, so much happened in the span of a couple of days.

Immediately after riding out of Rumuruti it was obvious how remote we were. The landscapes were dry and baron, similar to those in Botswana.

That was a good sign, because that’s where I saw the most wildlife in Africa so far.

After doing a final stock up of water and food in the small town of Sosian, we left and only 3km down the road saw our first heard of elephants in the distance.

DISCLAIMER >>> Don’t do this yourself. Elephants are known to charge cyclists and kill them. <<<<

After having over 30 different experiences with wild elephants in Botswana, I was very comfortable around them.

Ian was a little more apprehensive as he hadn’t seen any elephants in the wild that weren’t from on a main road or from the comfort of a safari jeep.

We slowly approached closer to the elephants, gauging their attitude towards us. They were very relaxed and just watching us from the corner of their eyes.

There were about 7 of them each just eating from the trees.

We thought this would be the perfect opportunity to get a picture with the elephants and our bikes. We nudged a little too close to them at one point.

The mother of one of the juvenile elephants false charged us from about 50m away. 

It was just a warning charge telling us not to come any closer.

We quickly rode away and a few hundred metres further down the road we stopped and Ian said “Man, I thought that was it, I thought we were dead.”

We continued along the road and saw another 2 herds of elephants in the afternoon. We had already planned where we wanted to wild camp for the night after scoping out a big water hole on Google Satellite.

It was 400m off the main track through the brush. We thought it would be the perfect place to camp and see wildlife coming to the waterhole to drink.

DISCLAIMER >>> Don’t do this yourself. Elephants are known to charge cyclists and kill them. <<<<

I know the risks and am willing to take them. Don’t take them yourself!

We walked around the waterhole which was about 600m in circumference until we found a spot next to a tree to pitch the tents. It was only 10m from the waters edge. The whole shoreline of the lake and its surroundings was covered in dried up elephant poo.

We decided to light a fire to keep the animals at a distance from us. We were sure they would eventually venture over once it got dark, but to our surprise, we didn’t see any

We did have a nice night drinking whiskey and cooking pasta on the fire. There were still plenty of critters walking around including a scorpion.

getting spotted by armed guards (twice)

The following morning at 6am I started hearing a truck driving around. It appeared to get closer then further away, closer then further away. This continued for about 20 minutes until eventually, it spotted us by the lake.

It was a group of several armed men dressed in military clothing. They quickly jumped out of the truck and approached my tent.

“Here we go again” I thought. Referring to the time I was held at gunpoint in Namibia.

Still half asleep, I poked my head out of the tent and welcomed them to our nice camp.

They informed us that it was very dangerous to camp here because of the animals. They were surprisingly very friendly and non threatening, even apologising for disturbing us.

Apparently we were on private land, and everything off the main route was private land. You aren’t meant to be there without permission, which we weren’t aware of.

They were the anti-poaching unit for the Ranch we were on. Nothing was fenced or signposted so it was hard to know that it was all privately owned.

We told them we would leave within the hour and they left us. It was basically the opposite of how you would imagine an interaction with a truck full of armed guards running at your tent in the early hours of the morning.

Ian and I had already planned to spend the day riding around off the main road around dirt tracks that only appeared on the satellite view.

But first we quickly stopped at Laikipia Wilderness Camp, a luxurious 5 star camp that’s $250USD+ per night. We asked if we could buy some breakfast and fill our water.

They were so nice and even though it was normally by booking only, they gave us some breakfast for free and topped up all our water with ice cold clean water for the day.

Eventually, we made our way to the dirt tracks along the river and followed them. More sightings of elephants, giraffes, zebras, antelope, dik diks and warthogs.

It really was just so nice to be in the centre of wildlife riding around on our bikes completely by ourselves. This is what I imagined riding through the whole of East Africa to be like before coming. But the reality is, these type of places are few and far between. There are normally just people everywhere.

We would stop every 20mins or so to take pictures of wildlife or just watch them from our bikes.

We were also trying to scope out a new camping spot for the night that would be hidden. Even though we weren’t on any road or track the night before, we were still found, so we thought hiding behind some trees next to the river would be our best bet of seeing wildlife while not getting caught.

We found a nice place around 2pm and left our bikes behind a tree to go exploring the area by foot.

We hadn’t seen or heard any people or vehicles since breakfast, so we were pretty confident we were all alone. After an hour or so of walking around, we heard voices in the distance.

We stopped, then continued towards them. Ian was convinced it was a good idea to go and talk to them. They were sitting up on a hill and watching us from afar, probably a kilometre away.

I wanted to turn around, go back to our bikes, ride in the opposite direction and go to a different camp spot that we had sighted earlier in the day.

I didn’t want to deal with more armed men approaching in the night.

But Ian, being the stubborn man he is, convinced me to go talk to them.

We made our way further up the hill towards them, yelling to attract their attention and show we didn’t want any trouble.

One of the men, started walking down the hill towards us. He was dressed in an army top and was holding a gun. We shook his hand with big smiles and tried to communicate with him. 

He didn’t speak any English but was being friendly towards us. He led us on foot towards a group of 4 armed men (different from the ones that approached my tent in the morning), none of whom spoke English.

We were just smiling and trying to use sign language to ask for permission to camp there.

It was like a game of charades. We tried to explain to them we were riding our bikes and just wanted somewhere to pitch our tents to sleep.

One of the men got on his radio and radioed someone. Then they escorted us down the hill. They led us to where we went off track earlier in the day to follow a giraffe…and they had obviously been watching us for hours.

I think they thought we were lost and were trying to escort us back to our bikes. 

But we then led them to where our bikes were hidden and showed them a picture of our tents and pointed to the ground to ask to camp.

It seemed like they thought it was okay.

We even gave them a ride on our bikes and one of them handed Ian his loaded gun, quickly realising it wasn’t such a good idea and taking it back off him and unloading it.

They rode off with our bikes in opposite directions and Ian and I weren’t sure if we’d just been robbed or not. They were gone for a good 15 minutes out of site while we stood there with the other 2 armed men.

Eventually, they returned and one of them was guiding a man on a motorbike towards us. He spoke English and told us it was private land and it wasn’t possible to camp there. 

We told him where we camped the night before and the armed men said it was fine. However, it was a different Ranch and the man said it was impossible to get in touch with the owner (no phone signal) to ask his permission to camp there.

They just don’t want to be liable if we die by an elephant, which I completely understand. He said that he would escort us back to the main road and that we should just camp right next to the road. 

Ian kept trying to convince him to let us camp there and I was just ready to get back on the bike and head back to the main road.

Luckily it still was only around 4.30pm and we had some daylight left. 

After being escorted back to the main road, he waved goodbye and drove off in the opposite direction. We looked at the satellite view (cached from the day before as there was no service) and saw a nice river where we could potentially camp and be hidden.

We rode down to the path next to the river, got off our bikes and walked in opposite directions looking for somewhere nice to pitch the tents.

Ian returned saying there was a small house in the direction he walked and I showed him the only place I could see that looked viable, a hidden spot in the river bed that was raised up a couple of metres from the water level.

It was hidden by an overhanging tree and with the sun slowly disappearing, we decided it was our best bet.

My stove was not working so we knew we had to make a fire again if we wanted to eat. We collected firewood and some large rocks to place the pot on.

As I was collecting rocks from the river, I was pretty sure I saw a crocodile in the river, but it could have just been the splash of a large fish.

Just after starting the fire, we heard the sound of a vehicle passing near the rivers edge. They didn’t see us nor the flame of the fire to our astonishment. 

It was a good sign and meant we weren’t going to have to move our camp tonight, which we were both happy about.

Ian started the fire while I quickly set up my tent. There was a storm coming our way, with a large black cloud moving in our direction. We decided that at least if one tent was setup we would be able to escape the rain and once I was setup, Ian setup his tent and I continued with the fire and cooking the pasta.

Eventually it started raining but we missed the worst part of the storm must have passed right next to us. 

On the other side of the river there was a heard of curious Zebras. I imagine they were probably wondering why we were camping so close to the river when there are crocs in there.

Eventually everything worked out, we drank some more whiskey, ate some delicious pasta and went to sleep.

Narrowly escaping a flood in the Morning

I told Ian I wanted to wakeup at 5am and leave before the sun came up because I didn’t want another encounter with armed men…he didn’t have to deal with it the previous morning and barely woke up when I was talking to them.

Thank god we decided to get up early!

I got up and out of my tent early and packed up in the dark. Ian woke up 5 minutes later and informed me he’d just been bitten by a scorpion, twice.

He found it on his shirt and threw it out of the tent. We weren’t sure how much pain he would be in but apparently it was no worse than a couple wasp bites.

As Ian began packing up his tent we noticed the water level of the river rising rapidly.

By the time we had fully packed up everything the river had risen right next to where we had camped…and a few minutes later the whole river bed was under water.

So lucky we got up early otherwise we would have been in serious trouble. A rookie mistake from two experienced bike travellers and wild campers…but those are the kind of mistakes you can make when you’re tired and it’s getting dark.

We climbed out of the river bed and sat next to a tree.

Ian had a flat tyre so he had to repair that before we left. By this time the sun was out and if a vehicle came we were definitely going to get caught.

As Ian was repairing his tyre, I noticed a massive dog running to the water and I told Ian. We both assumed it was one of the large dogs we had seen at the Laikipia Wilderness Camp the morning before and they’d probably been watching us all night from the Lodge. 

With the rising water level, we thought maybe they’d come to make sure we were awake. We were camped only a few kilometres down the river from the lodge.

We were waiting for the dog to see us and assumed their would be people not far behind it.

The dog suddenly appeared around the corner and was startled as it stopped 5 metres in front of me.

It was obvious straight away that it wasn’t a domestic dog but a spotted hyena, and it got a big fright when it almost ran into us.

It quickly ran away before we got the chance to get a picture of it.

It was turning into a pretty eventful morning and it wasn’t even 6am yet.

The moment Ian finished repairing his tyre, we spotted a giraffe and decided to follow it for a bit. Riding over very thorny terrain. Eventually my tubeless tyres was leaking and needed to be plugged.

Finally, while I was plugging my tyre, a safari truck came with a bunch of tourists, saw me and drove over.

I said we were just down by the river filling up our water bottles.

He recognised us from the morning before when we went to get water from the camp and said we couldn’t be there and we left.

Once we finally reached the main road, Ian got another puncture. Then another 20 minutes after that, I had to put in 3 more plugs into my tyres.

It was just turning into one of those days were everything was going wrong. Puncture after puncture. Slow going and not having much water because my filter was so clogged up from the dirty water it had been filtering.

All day we were seeing wildlife near the road and would stop to take pictures.

Eventually at around 11am, we decided to stop, take a break, eat some food and watch some giraffes in the distance.

We both toyed with the idea of hitchhiking the last 40km as progress was going so slow.

But after lunch we got some momentum and just smashed it out.

Eventually we made it to a tar road and felt like we were on the home stretch.

Not too long after that, the headwind kicked in and the sky turned black. We were sure we must only be 3km to town but looked at the map and it said we were still 20km away.

It was honestly one of the biggest headwinds I’ve ever ridden in. I was cycling but not moving. We were trying to take turns blocking each other from the wind slowly making progress at less than normal walking speed.

We were both out of water and just trying to get to the town before the storm hit. It looked fierce.

Eventually after a couple hours of battling the headwind, it disappeared. Ian informed me his legs were dead and it had been one of his toughest days cycling in Africa so far. We were only 5km away now, and we made it.

Our time riding the Kenyan Bike Odyssey route was finished and so was our time riding together.

We spent a few days together in Nanyuki, drinking beers and celebrating an amazing few weeks we’d just had.

Eventually I took a bus back to Nairobi to sort out my bike and wait for my flight to Cameroon while Ian continued cycling north towards Ethiopia and eventually Egypt.


Honestly, riding through Kenya with Ian has been one of highlights of my Bikepacking Journey Across Africa. We got on extremely well and he always had a smile on his face, even during tough situations.

The riding itself along the Kenyan Bikepacking Odyssey was just incredible. Being able to ride amongst all that wildlife was just an experience I’ve really missed since leaving Botswana. It was nice to share it with someone this time.

Over the following days, I found 3 ticks on me which I assume I got from wild camping in Laikipia.

I’m now back in Nairobi, Kenya and getting ready to fly to Cameroon to continue the next part of my adventure in West and Central Africa.

Route through kenya

Route through Africa so far

Matthias watching the sunset

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